Every tile installation starts the same way: a sound substrate, a plan for layout, and the right materials for the job. What changes is the application. A shower wall has different waterproofing requirements than a kitchen backsplash. A herringbone floor needs different layout planning than a straight-set subway pattern. Natural stone needs sealing steps that porcelain does not. This is where most installation mistakes happen, not in the basic mechanics of spreading thinset and setting tile, but in skipping the steps specific to the material or the room.
The guides below walk through full installations from start to finish, covering the tools you need, the substrate prep specific to each application, and the technique that keeps the finished result looking intentional rather than improvised. Whether you are tiling your first backsplash or planning a full bathroom renovation, start with the guide that matches your project and material.
If you are still deciding whether to take a project on yourself or bring in a professional, our DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation guide breaks down the factors worth weighing before you buy a single tool.
Tile Installation Guides
Tile Installation Guides
Shower Waterproofing Methods Compared: Membrane vs. Liquid-Applied vs. Foam Board
Sheet membrane, liquid-applied membrane, and waterproof foam board are the three main ways to waterproof a shower before tiling, and each works differently. Sheet membrane is a fabric-backed material bonded over cement board with thinset. Liquid-applied membrane is rolled or brushed directly onto the substrate like paint. Foam board, covered in our Backer Board Types comparison, combines the substrate and waterproofing into one product. All three, installed correctly, create a reliable waterproof shower assembly. The right choice usually comes down to what you are most comfortable working with and whether you are starting from bare studs or an existing substrate. This guide compares how each method works, where it is used, and the tradeoffs between them. Table of Contents Why Waterproofing Matters More Than the Tile Itself Sheet Membrane Liquid-Applied Membrane Waterproof Foam Board Side-by-Side Comparison Which One Should You Choose? Common Mistakes to Avoid Why Waterproofing Matters More Than the Tile Itself Tile and grout are not actually waterproof on their own. Grout in particular is porous and allows some water through over time. The waterproofing layer behind the tile, not the tile itself, is what actually protects the wall structure from water damage. This is why the waterproofing method matters as much as, or more than, tile selection when it comes to the long-term durability of a shower. Sheet Membrane Sheet membrane is a thin, fabric-reinforced waterproofing material installed over cement board or drywall-alternative substrate, bonded in place with thinset mortar the way tile itself is bonded. It comes in rolls and is cut to fit walls, corners, and the shower floor, with seams overlapped and sealed according to the manufacturer's instructions. Sheet membrane has a long track record and is well understood by most professional installers, but it requires careful attention to seams, inside corners, and any penetrations like shower valves or niches, since any gap in the membrane is a potential path for water. Liquid-Applied Membrane Liquid-applied membrane is a paint-like waterproofing coating rolled or brushed directly onto cement board, typically in two coats. It is often considered the most approachable option for a DIYer, since there is no cutting or seam-sealing involved, just even coverage with a roller, paying close attention to corners and transitions where a brush may work better than a roller. Liquid membrane requires full cure time between coats and before tiling, so plan for extra project time compared to sheet membrane, which can typically be tiled over more quickly once installed. Waterproof Foam Board Foam board systems like GoBoard combine the substrate and the waterproofing layer into a single product, with the waterproofing built into the board's coating and activated at seams and fasteners using the manufacturer's specific sealing tape and sealant system. This approach can reduce the total number of steps and products involved, since you are not applying a separate membrane over a separate substrate. Full detail on this option is covered in our Backer Board Types comparison. Side-by-Side Comparison Ease of DIY application: Liquid membrane is generally the easiest for a first-time installer. Sheet membrane requires more precision at seams and corners. Foam board requires following a specific taping and sealing system correctly. Cure time: Liquid membrane needs time between coats and before tiling. Sheet membrane and foam board systems generally allow tiling sooner once installed correctly. Cost: Liquid membrane and sheet membrane are generally less expensive than a full foam board system, which combines substrate and waterproofing into one higher-cost product. Track record: Sheet membrane has the longest history of professional use. Liquid membrane and foam board systems are both well established but newer to the market than traditional sheet membrane. Which One Should You Choose? If you are comfortable with careful, precise work and want the most tested option, sheet membrane over cement board is a reliable choice. If you want the most approachable DIY process with the fewest technique-dependent steps, liquid-applied membrane is generally easier to get right on a first attempt. If you are starting from bare studs and want to minimize the total number of products and installation steps, a foam board system may be worth the added cost. Whichever method you choose, the actual tile installation process afterward is the same. See our Shower Wall Tile Installation guide for the full step-by-step process. Common Mistakes to Avoid Leaving gaps at inside corners or around shower valves and niches, regardless of which method you use Not applying a second coat of liquid membrane where the manufacturer requires it Rushing cure time before tiling over liquid membrane Not following the exact seam-sealing system required for foam board to function as a waterproof assembly Mixing components from different manufacturers' systems, which can void warranty coverage on some products Ready to start your shower project? See our Backer Board Types comparison and our full Installation Blog for every step-by-step guide.
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Backer Board Types Compared: Cement Board vs. HardieBacker vs. GoBoard
Cement board, HardieBacker, and GoBoard are the three most common substrates for tile installation, and the right choice depends on weight, waterproofing needs, and how the material is cut and installed. Cement board and HardieBacker are both cement-based products and perform similarly, with HardieBacker being a specific fiber cement brand rather than a separate category. GoBoard is a different material entirely, a foam core board with a built-in waterproof coating, which eliminates the need for a separate waterproofing membrane in many applications. All three are suitable substrates for tile, but they are not interchangeable in every situation. This guide breaks down what each one is, how they differ in practice, and which is the better fit for common installation scenarios. Table of Contents Cement Board HardieBacker GoBoard and Foam Backer Board Side-by-Side Comparison Which One Should You Choose? Common Mistakes to Avoid Cement Board Cement board is a rigid panel made of Portland cement reinforced with fiberglass mesh. It has been the industry standard tile substrate for decades because it is dimensionally stable, will not deteriorate from moisture the way drywall does, and provides a strong, flat surface for thinset to bond to. Cement board does not waterproof a wall or floor on its own. It still requires a separate waterproofing membrane in any wet area application, applied over the seams and screw points after the board is installed. Cement board is heavier than foam alternatives and requires a jigsaw or a scoring knife with more effort to cut compared to foam board. HardieBacker HardieBacker is a specific brand of fiber cement backer board, similar in composition and performance to generic cement board but manufactured with a proprietary formulation that many installers find easier to score and snap compared to some generic cement board products. Functionally, treat HardieBacker the same as cement board: it requires a separate waterproofing membrane in wet areas, and it is not a standalone waterproof system on its own. The practical difference between HardieBacker and generic cement board mostly comes down to consistency and ease of cutting rather than a fundamental difference in performance. GoBoard and Foam Backer Board GoBoard and similar foam-core backer boards use a rigid foam core with a fiberglass mat and coating on both faces, and critically, most foam backer board products are waterproof on their own once seams and fasteners are properly treated with the manufacturer's sealing system. This can eliminate the need for a separate liquid or sheet waterproofing membrane in many applications, simplifying the installation process. Foam backer board is significantly lighter than cement board, which makes it easier to handle on ceilings or large wall sections, and it cuts cleanly with a utility knife rather than requiring a jigsaw or scoring tool. It is generally more expensive per square foot than cement board. Side-by-Side Comparison Weight: Cement board and HardieBacker are heavier. Foam board is significantly lighter. Waterproofing: Cement board and HardieBacker require a separate membrane in wet areas. Foam board is often waterproof on its own once seams are sealed per the manufacturer's system. Cutting: Cement board and HardieBacker require a jigsaw, scoring knife, or cement board shears. Foam board cuts cleanly with a utility knife. Cost: Cement board is generally the least expensive per square foot. Foam board is typically the most expensive. Best for: Cement board and HardieBacker work well for floors and standard wall applications. Foam board is popular for showers, ceilings, and curbs where its built-in waterproofing and light weight are a bigger advantage. Which One Should You Choose? For a standard floor installation in a dry area, generic cement board is usually the most cost-effective choice, since waterproofing is not a factor. For a shower or other wet area, the decision comes down to whether you want to install a separate waterproofing membrane over cement board or HardieBacker, or use a foam board system designed to handle waterproofing as part of the substrate itself. Many professional installers use foam board specifically in showers for this reason, since it can simplify the number of steps and products involved. For the full waterproofing process regardless of which substrate you choose, see our Shower Wall Tile Installation guide. Common Mistakes to Avoid Assuming cement board or HardieBacker is waterproof on its own without an added membrane Not following the specific seam-sealing system required for foam board to actually be waterproof Using standard drywall screws instead of corrosion-resistant fasteners rated for backer board Skipping the manufacturer's fastener spacing pattern, which affects the structural integrity of the substrate Ready to plan your substrate and waterproofing system? See our full Installation Blog for step-by-step guides by application and material.
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Thinset Types Explained: White vs. Gray vs. Mastic
White and gray thinset are the same product with different pigment, and the choice between them comes down to whether your tile is translucent enough for the mortar color to show through. Mastic is a different product entirely, a pre-mixed adhesive that should only be used in dry, low-moisture areas, never in a shower or other wet application. Getting this choice wrong is one of the most common and most preventable tile installation mistakes, since the wrong adhesive can cause staining, poor bond strength, or outright failure in a wet environment. This guide breaks down what each type is, when to use it, and the mistakes that come from mixing them up. Table of Contents What Is Thinset Mortar? White Thinset vs. Gray Thinset What Is Mastic, and When Should You Use It? Modified vs. Unmodified Thinset Quick Reference: What to Use Where Common Mistakes to Avoid What Is Thinset Mortar? Thinset is a cement-based adhesive mixed with water (or a liquid additive, in the case of modified thinset) that bonds tile to a substrate. It cures through a chemical reaction rather than by drying alone, which is what makes it suitable for wet areas like showers and pools, unlike adhesives that rely on evaporation to cure. Thinset is the standard adhesive for the large majority of professional tile installations, ceramic, porcelain, glass, and natural stone alike. White Thinset vs. Gray Thinset White and gray thinset perform identically in terms of bond strength and cure time. The only functional difference is color. Gray is the standard, lower-cost option and is the right choice for any opaque tile, ceramic, porcelain, and most natural stone, where the color underneath the tile has no effect on the finished appearance. White thinset is required for glass tile and any translucent or light-colored natural stone, since gray mortar shows through and visibly changes the finished color of the tile. If you are installing glass mosaic tile, white thinset is not optional. The same applies to light marble and other pale natural stone, where a dark adhesive underneath can dull or discolor the finished surface even after grouting. What Is Mastic, and When Should You Use It? Mastic is a pre-mixed, ready-to-use adhesive that cures by evaporation rather than a chemical reaction. It is easier to work with for a beginner since there is no mixing involved, and it has a longer open time, which is forgiving for a first-time installer setting tile slowly. The tradeoff is significant: mastic does not hold up to sustained moisture exposure and should never be used in a shower, on a shower floor, around a tub surround, or in any other wet or submerged application. Mastic is appropriate for dry-area wall tile only, most commonly a kitchen backsplash away from direct water exposure, or a decorative accent wall. Even in dry areas, thinset is always an acceptable substitute for mastic, while the reverse is not true. Modified vs. Unmodified Thinset Beyond the white and gray distinction, thinset also comes in modified and unmodified formulas. Modified thinset has polymer additives that improve bond strength and flexibility, making it the standard choice for most tile types and for larger or heavier tile. Unmodified thinset is typically reserved for specific applications like setting tile over an uncoupling membrane, where the manufacturer's instructions call for it specifically. When in doubt, modified thinset is the safer default for a general installation. Quick Reference: What to Use Where Ceramic or porcelain tile, dry area: Gray modified thinset, or mastic as an easier-to-use alternative Ceramic or porcelain tile, wet area (shower, pool): Gray modified thinset only, never mastic Glass mosaic tile, any application: White modified thinset Light or translucent natural stone: White modified thinset Dark or opaque natural stone: Gray modified thinset Metal mosaic tile: Gray modified thinset is acceptable, since the opaque surface does not show mortar color For material-specific installation steps, see our guides to natural stone mosaic installation and metal mosaic tile installation. Common Mistakes to Avoid Using mastic in a shower or other wet area, where it can fail and lead to tile falling off the wall Using gray thinset under glass or light-colored translucent stone, causing visible discoloration Assuming mastic and thinset are interchangeable in every situation, when the reverse substitution only works one way Using unmodified thinset for a general installation where modified thinset would provide better bond strength Ready to start your project? See our full guides to shower wall tile installation and every guide in our Installation Blog.
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How to Install Tile Over Radiant Floor Heating
Installing tile over radiant floor heating works well because tile conducts and retains heat better than almost any other flooring material, but the installation itself requires a few extra steps beyond a standard floor. Test the heating system before you tile, use a thinset compatible with the heating element, avoid puncturing cables or tubing during installation, and follow the manufacturer's curing schedule before turning the system on for the first time. Get those steps right and radiant heat under tile is one of the most comfortable flooring combinations available. This guide covers both electric cable and hydronic (water-based) radiant systems, since the installation process is similar for both once the heating element itself is in place. Table of Contents Electric vs. Hydronic Radiant Systems Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Test the System Before Installing Anything Step 2: Document the Layout Step 3: Apply Self-Leveling Underlayment if Needed Step 4: Test the System Again Step 5: Set the Tile Step 6: Grout and Wait Before Turning on the Heat Common Mistakes to Avoid Electric vs. Hydronic Radiant Systems Electric radiant systems use resistive cable or mats installed directly under the tile, while hydronic systems circulate heated water through tubing, usually embedded in a concrete or self-leveling underlayment layer. Electric systems are more common in single-room retrofits like bathrooms, while hydronic systems are more often installed during larger renovations or new construction across multiple rooms. The tile installation process is similar for both, since in each case you are setting tile over a substrate that contains a heating element you cannot puncture or damage. Tools and Materials You Will Need Ohmmeter, for testing electric systems before and after installation Self-leveling underlayment, if required by your system Notched trowel Modified thinset mortar compatible with radiant heat (check manufacturer specifications) Tile spacers Grout appropriate to your joint width Camera or phone, to photograph cable or tubing layout before covering it Step 1: Test the System Before Installing Anything Before you tile, test an electric system with an ohmmeter and compare the reading to the manufacturer's specifications to confirm the cable was not damaged during its own installation. For hydronic systems, pressure test the tubing according to the manufacturer's instructions. Never begin tiling over a heating system that has not been tested and confirmed functional, since problems are far more difficult and expensive to diagnose once tile is in place. Step 2: Document the Layout Photograph the exact layout of cables or tubing before covering them with underlayment or thinset. This record is invaluable later if you ever need to drill into the floor for any reason, whether for a future renovation or to mount something to the wall above. Keep the photos somewhere you can find them years later, not just on the installer's phone. Step 3: Apply Self-Leveling Underlayment if Needed Many radiant systems call for a layer of self-leveling underlayment poured over the heating element before tile is installed, both to protect the cables or tubing and to create a flat, even surface for the tile. Follow the manufacturer's specified thickness and cure time exactly, since underlayment that is too thin can leave heating elements vulnerable, and underlayment that has not cured fully can trap moisture under the tile. Step 4: Test the System Again After the underlayment has cured, test the system a second time before setting any tile. This confirms nothing was damaged during the underlayment pour and gives you a final opportunity to catch a problem before it is covered by tile and grout. Step 5: Set the Tile Use a modified thinset confirmed compatible with radiant heat systems, since some thinset products are not rated for the repeated heating and cooling cycles a radiant floor goes through. Apply with a notched trowel and set tile as you would over any substrate, taking care not to drag trowel edges or tile corners forcefully enough to damage what is beneath the underlayment. Step 6: Grout and Wait Before Turning on the Heat Let the thinset cure fully before grouting, then let the grout cure fully before turning the heating system on for the first time, following the manufacturer's specific waiting period, often one to two weeks total from tile setting to first use. Turning on the system too early can cause cracking as the thinset and grout cure under thermal stress rather than at a stable temperature. Common Mistakes to Avoid Skipping the pre-installation test and discovering a damaged cable after it is already covered Not photographing the layout, leaving no record of where cables or tubing run Using thinset not rated for radiant heat applications Turning the system on before thinset and grout have fully cured Puncturing cables or tubing with trowel edges or aggressive tile placement For more flooring installation guidance, browse our Floor Blog, or see the full Installation Blog for step-by-step guides by material and application.
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How to Install Outdoor Tile: A Step-by-Step Guide
Installing outdoor tile follows the same general process as indoor tile, with three critical additions: a slight slope built into the substrate for drainage, movement joints placed at regular intervals to handle temperature swings, and materials rated for exterior and freeze-thaw exposure throughout. Skip any of these three and an otherwise well-installed outdoor tile job can crack, heave, or trap water within a year or two of exposure to the elements. This guide covers the technical side of exterior tile installation. If you have not chosen a material yet, see our Top Outdoor Tile Options guide first. Table of Contents Choosing Freeze-Thaw Rated Materials Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Confirm the Substrate Can Handle Exterior Use Step 2: Build in Slope for Drainage Step 3: Plan Movement Joints Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Tile Step 5: Grout with an Exterior-Rated Product Step 6: Seal Where Appropriate Common Mistakes to Avoid Choosing Freeze-Thaw Rated Materials Not every tile is rated for exterior use. Porcelain with low water absorption, generally below 0.5 percent, is the most reliable choice for freeze-thaw climates, since it resists the cracking that happens when absorbed water freezes and expands inside a more porous tile. Check the manufacturer's specifications for a freeze-thaw or exterior rating before purchasing, regardless of how the tile looks or feels. Tools and Materials You Will Need Exterior-rated, polymer-modified thinset mortar Notched trowel Elastomeric or urethane sealant, for movement joints Backer rod, for movement joint depth Level and string line, for establishing slope Wet saw rated for exterior tile material Exterior-rated, freeze-thaw resistant grout Penetrating sealer, if using natural stone Step 1: Confirm the Substrate Can Handle Exterior Use Exterior tile needs a substrate built to handle constant weather exposure, typically a concrete slab or an exterior-rated cement backer board over a properly framed and waterproofed deck structure. Confirm the substrate is fully cured, structurally sound, and free of cracks before tiling. Existing cracks in a concrete slab will typically telegraph through the tile above them over time unless addressed with a crack isolation membrane first. Step 2: Build in Slope for Drainage Outdoor tile surfaces need a slope of roughly 1/4 inch per foot directing water away from the house and toward an appropriate drainage point. Without this slope, water pools on the surface, which accelerates staining, algae growth, and freeze-thaw damage. This is typically built into the substrate before tile is ever set, so confirm the slope is correct at this stage rather than trying to compensate for it with tile placement later. Step 3: Plan Movement Joints Unlike interior tile, exterior installations need movement joints, gaps filled with flexible sealant instead of rigid grout, placed at regular intervals (typically every 8 to 12 feet, and always where the tile meets a different material or structure) to absorb the expansion and contraction that comes with outdoor temperature swings. Skipping movement joints is one of the most common causes of cracked or heaved exterior tile. Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Tile Use a polymer-modified thinset rated for exterior use, applied with a notched trowel sized to your tile. Back-butter each tile in addition to combing the substrate for maximum coverage, since voids under exterior tile are more likely to trap water and contribute to freeze-thaw cracking than voids in a dry interior installation. Maintain your planned slope as you set each tile, checking regularly with a level. Step 5: Grout with an Exterior-Rated Product Use a grout specifically rated for exterior and freeze-thaw exposure. Standard interior grout can absorb water and crack under freeze-thaw cycling in a way exterior-rated products are formulated to resist. Leave your planned movement joints ungrouted at this stage, since they get filled separately with flexible sealant. Step 6: Seal Where Appropriate Once grout has cured, fill movement joints with a flexible elastomeric or urethane sealant over a backer rod, which allows the joint to expand and contract without cracking. If you used natural stone, apply a penetrating sealer rated for exterior use, and plan to reapply it more frequently than you would indoors, since exterior surfaces face more consistent moisture and UV exposure. Common Mistakes to Avoid Using interior-rated thinset or grout outdoors, where freeze-thaw cycling will cause it to fail Skipping movement joints, leading to cracked or heaved tile after temperature swings Installing without adequate slope, causing water to pool on the surface Tiling over a cracked slab without a crack isolation membrane Choosing a tile without a confirmed freeze-thaw rating for your climate Still deciding on material? See our Top Outdoor Tile Options guide, or browse more installation guidance on our Installation Blog.
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Easiest Tiles to Install for DIY Projects
The easiest tiles to install are peel and stick tile, subway tile, mesh-mounted mosaic sheets, and standard ceramic wall tile. These options lower the skill barrier because they involve fewer cuts, simpler adhesive systems, or arrive pre-spaced on a backing sheet that keeps spacing consistent for you. If you are new to tiling and want a project that builds confidence without a steep learning curve, starting with one of these formats is the single best decision you can make before you buy any tools. This guide walks through why each option is beginner friendly, what to expect during installation, and where to go for a full step-by-step walkthrough once you have picked your tile. Table of Contents Peel and Stick Tile Subway Tile Mesh-Mounted Mosaic Sheets Standard Ceramic Wall Tile Picket Tile What Makes a Tile Harder to Install Peel and Stick Tile Peel and stick tile is the lowest-skill option of any tile format. There is no thinset to mix, no trowel technique to learn, and no grout required with most products. You clean the surface, peel the backing, and press each tile into place. This makes it a strong choice for renters, first-time DIYers, or anyone who wants a finished look without the tools and time a traditional installation requires. For a full walkthrough, see our How to Install Peel and Stick Tile guide. Subway Tile Subway tile is a simple rectangular shape installed in a straight-lay or simple offset pattern, which makes layout easy to plan and mistakes easy to avoid. The uniform size means fewer irregular cuts, and the classic offset pattern is forgiving even if your spacing is not perfectly consistent from tile to tile. It is one of the most common first projects for a reason. Our How to Install Subway Tile guide covers the full process from surface prep to grouting. Mesh-Mounted Mosaic Sheets Mesh-mounted mosaic sheets come pre-spaced on a backing, so instead of setting dozens of small individual pieces, you are setting one sheet at a time. This dramatically speeds up installation and removes most of the spacing guesswork that trips up beginners with small-format tile. The main skill to learn is keeping seams between sheets aligned, which is a much smaller learning curve than placing individual pieces by hand. See our Mesh-Mounted Mosaic Tile guide for tips on sheet alignment and common troubleshooting. Standard Ceramic Wall Tile Standard-format ceramic wall tile, generally 4 to 12 inches square, is easy to cut, lightweight, and forgiving of minor substrate imperfections compared to large-format porcelain or natural stone. It is a reliable choice for a first backsplash or accent wall project, since the tile itself does most of the forgiving for you. Picket Tile Picket tile has an elongated shape that some assume is more advanced, but it is genuinely approachable for a DIYer willing to follow a guide, largely because it is usually sold sheet-mounted, which keeps spacing consistent the same way mesh-mounted mosaic does. See our Install Picket Tiles guide for the full process. What Makes a Tile Harder to Install On the other end of the spectrum, large-format tile, natural stone, and complex patterns like herringbone or chevron all raise the skill level required. Large-format tile is unforgiving of an uneven substrate and heavy to handle. Natural stone needs sealing before and after grouting to avoid staining. Angled patterns require more layout planning and generate more waste. None of these are impossible for a DIYer, but they are a better second or third project than a first one. If you are weighing whether to take on a more advanced project yourself, our DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation guide breaks down the decision factors in more detail.
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DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation: How to Decide
The right choice between DIY and professional tile installation comes down to four factors: the complexity of your chosen tile and pattern, whether the space is a wet area like a shower, your available time, and your comfort level with the tools and techniques involved. Straightforward tile in a low-risk, dry area, such as a subway tile backsplash, is realistic for most confident DIYers. Complex layouts, large-format tile, wet areas with waterproofing requirements, or natural stone that needs sealing are where hiring a professional reduces real risk, not just inconvenience. This guide breaks down each factor so you can make the call with a clear picture of what each path actually involves, rather than guessing. Table of Contents Factor 1: Tile Type and Pattern Complexity Factor 2: Room Type and Moisture Exposure Factor 3: Time and Tool Investment Factor 4: Cost Comparison Projects That Are Good DIY Candidates Projects Where Hiring a Professional Makes Sense A Middle Ground: Partial DIY Factor 1: Tile Type and Pattern Complexity Standard-format square or rectangular tile in a straight-lay or simple offset pattern is the most forgiving option for a first-time installer. Complexity increases with pattern (herringbone and chevron require more layout planning and generate more waste), tile size (large-format tile is heavier and less forgiving of an uneven substrate), and material (natural stone and glass mosaic have handling and sealing requirements that ceramic and porcelain do not). If you are set on a more complex pattern, see our Herringbone Layout Guide to get a realistic sense of what the process involves before deciding whether to take it on yourself. Factor 2: Room Type and Moisture Exposure Dry areas like backsplashes and accent walls carry low risk if something goes wrong. Wet areas, showers, tub surrounds, and pool tile, carry real consequences for installation mistakes, since poor waterproofing can lead to hidden water damage that is expensive to repair. This is the single biggest reason many experienced DIYers still hire a professional for shower installations specifically, even when they are comfortable tiling a backsplash themselves. Factor 3: Time and Tool Investment A DIY installation almost always takes longer than a professional one, both because of a learning curve and because most homeowners are working around a day job rather than tiling full time. Factor in the cost of tools you do not already own, a wet saw, notched trowels, a laser level, and leveling clips for large-format tile, against the cost of renting them or simply hiring the job out. Our Step by Step Tile Installation guide lays out the full process end to end if you want a realistic time estimate before committing to a DIY timeline. Factor 4: Cost Comparison Professional installation typically runs several dollars per square foot in labor on top of material costs, while DIY saves on labor but adds the cost of tools, potential material waste from mistakes, and the value of your own time. The real cost comparison should also account for risk: a DIY mistake in a wet area can turn into a much larger repair bill than the labor you saved by not hiring a professional in the first place. Projects That Are Good DIY Candidates Kitchen backsplash with standard-format ceramic or porcelain tile Accent walls in dry, low-traffic areas Subway tile or other simple, straight-lay patterns Small floor areas with a flat, sound existing substrate Peel and stick tile projects, which carry the lowest skill barrier of any tile format Projects Where Hiring a Professional Makes Sense Shower walls and shower floors, where waterproofing mistakes are costly to fix Pool tile, which requires specialized waterproof setting materials Large-format tile, which is unforgiving of substrate imperfections Natural stone installations that require specific sealing and setting materials Complex patterns like herringbone or chevron on a large or highly visible surface Any project involving structural repairs to the substrate before tiling can begin A Middle Ground: Partial DIY You do not have to choose one approach for an entire project. Some homeowners handle demolition and substrate prep themselves to save on labor, then hire a professional for the tile setting and waterproofing where skill matters most. Others tile a low-risk backsplash themselves while hiring out a bathroom renovation. Matching the right approach to each part of a larger project is often the most cost-effective path. Ready to start planning your project? Browse our Tile Talk Blog for more installation guidance, or explore our full Installation Blog for step-by-step guides by material and application.
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Can You Install Tile Over Existing Tile? What to Know Before You Start
Yes, you can install new tile directly over existing tile in most cases, as long as the existing tile is firmly bonded, flat, and structurally sound, and you are prepared for the height the additional layer adds to the floor or wall. This approach skips the time, mess, and cost of demolition, but it is not the right choice for every situation. Before you commit, check the condition of your existing tile, the height clearance at doors and transitions, and whether your existing installation has any of the failure signs that make tiling over it a bad idea. This guide walks through how to evaluate whether your existing tile is a good candidate, how to prepare it, and the installation process once you decide to move forward. Table of Contents When Tiling Over Existing Tile Makes Sense When You Should Remove the Old Tile Instead Check Height Clearance Before You Commit Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Inspect and Test the Existing Tile Step 2: Clean and Deglaze the Surface Step 3: Repair Any Damaged Areas Step 4: Apply Bonding Primer if Needed Step 5: Install the New Tile When Tiling Over Existing Tile Makes Sense Tiling over existing tile is a reasonable option when the current tile is fully bonded to the substrate with no loose or hollow-sounding areas, the surface is flat and free of significant chips or cracks, and the room can accommodate the added height without creating problems at doors, cabinets, or transitions to other flooring. This approach works on both floors and walls and can save significant time and demolition cost compared to a full tear-out. When You Should Remove the Old Tile Instead Skip this approach and remove the existing tile if you notice any loose, cracked, or hollow-sounding tiles, visible water damage or staining that suggests moisture behind the tile, significant unevenness across the surface, or more than one existing layer of tile already on the substrate. Adding tile on top of a compromised installation locks in the underlying problem rather than fixing it. For a full removal process, see our Complete Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Laying Tiles. Check Height Clearance Before You Commit Every layer you add increases the finished height of the floor or wall, typically by 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch once thinset and new tile are accounted for. On floors, measure clearance at doors, cabinet toe kicks, and any transition to an adjoining room. On walls, check clearance around outlets, switch plates, and any built-in fixtures. This step gets skipped more often than any other and causes the most regret after installation is complete. Tools and Materials You Will Need Tapping tool or rubber mallet, for the sound test Degreasing cleaner 120-grit sandpaper or a deglazing agent, for glossy tile Patching compound, for chipped or damaged areas Bonding primer rated for tile-to-tile application Modified thinset mortar Notched trowel Tile spacers Grout appropriate to your joint width Step 1: Inspect and Test the Existing Tile Tap across the entire surface with a tapping tool or the handle of a screwdriver, listening for hollow spots that indicate the tile has separated from the substrate underneath. Mark any hollow-sounding areas. A small number of isolated hollow spots can often be addressed with patching, but widespread hollow sound across the surface is a sign the whole installation should be removed rather than tiled over. Step 2: Clean and Deglaze the Surface Clean the existing tile thoroughly with a degreasing cleaner to remove soap scum, oils, and any residue that would prevent thinset from bonding properly. If the existing tile has a glossy or polished glaze, scuff the surface with 120-grit sandpaper or use a deglazing agent, since thinset does not bond well to a smooth, glossy surface without some mechanical texture to grip. Step 3: Repair Any Damaged Areas Fill chips, cracks, and hollow spots identified during inspection with a patching compound rated for use under tile, and let it cure fully according to the product instructions. Sand any patched areas flush with the surrounding surface so the new tile sets flat once installed. Step 4: Apply Bonding Primer if Needed For glossy or low-porosity existing tile, apply a bonding primer designed for tile-to-tile installation before setting new tile. This step significantly improves how well the modified thinset grips the old surface and is worth the extra time, especially on walls where gravity works against a weak bond over time. Step 5: Install the New Tile Once the surface is clean, repaired, and primed if needed, the installation process is the same as tiling any other substrate: apply modified thinset with a notched trowel, set the new tile with spacers to maintain consistent joints, and let it cure before grouting. For general grouting technique, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Considering a full tear-out instead? See our Complete Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Laying Tiles, or browse our Floor Blog for more flooring-specific installation guidance. * I would like to point out, that BELK Tile DOES NOT recommend tiling over existing tile. There will be too many factors that will make this impossible to do.
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How to Install Herringbone Tile: A Layout and Installation Guide
Installing herringbone tile comes down to getting the layout right before you set a single piece. Establish a straight, centered starting line, dry lay a section to confirm your angle and cut points, budget extra tile for waste, then work outward in both directions from your starting point so the zigzag stays consistent across the full wall or floor. The pattern itself is not difficult once the layout is planned, but small errors in your starting line get magnified as the pattern repeats. This guide covers the technical side of installing herringbone tile: layout, waste calculation, cutting, and setting technique. For design inspiration and material options, see our Herringbone Tile Designs collection. Table of Contents Herringbone vs. Chevron: Know the Difference Before You Start Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Calculate Extra Tile for Waste Step 2: Establish Your Working Lines Step 3: Dry Lay a Test Section Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Field Tile Step 5: Cut and Set Border Tile Step 6: Grout the Pattern Choosing an Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal, or Diagonal Common Mistakes to Avoid Herringbone vs. Chevron: Know the Difference Before You Start Herringbone and chevron are often confused, but they install differently. Herringbone uses rectangular tiles that overlap at a 90 degree angle in a staggered, interlocking pattern, with each tile end sitting flush against the long edge of the next. Chevron uses tiles pre-cut at an angle so they meet in a continuous, seamless V-shape with no overlap. Herringbone is more forgiving for a first-time installer since the tiles are simple rectangles, while chevron requires angle-cut tile purchased that way from the manufacturer. Tools and Materials You Will Need Chalk line or laser level for working lines Notched trowel sized to your tile Thinset mortar Tile spacers Wet saw for cutting border and edge pieces Tile leveling clips (recommended for larger format herringbone tile) Grout float Grout appropriate to your joint width Pencil and graph paper, or layout software, for planning cut points Step 1: Calculate Extra Tile for Waste Herringbone generates more cut waste than a straight or offset layout because every tile at the border needs an angled cut to complete the pattern. Order 15 to 20 percent extra tile to cover this, compared to the 10 percent typically recommended for straight-lay patterns. Running short mid-installation is a common and avoidable problem with this pattern specifically. Step 2: Establish Your Working Lines Find the center of the installation area and snap a chalk line for your primary axis, either vertical or horizontal depending on your chosen orientation. From that centerline, establish a second line perpendicular to it. These two lines are what keep the pattern square as it repeats across the full space, so take the time to confirm both are accurate with a level before you mix any thinset. Step 3: Dry Lay a Test Section Lay out enough tile, without adhesive, to see four or five full pattern repeats along your working lines. This confirms your tile size produces clean intersections and shows you what the border cuts will look like before you commit. Adjust your starting point now if the dry layout leaves narrow, awkward slivers at a visible wall or the room's entry point. Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Field Tile Apply thinset with a notched trowel along one working line at a time, setting whole (uncut) tiles first and working outward from your centerline in both directions. Use spacers at every joint to maintain consistent spacing, and check that each tile is square to its neighbors as you go. For larger format tile, leveling clips help prevent lippage between adjacent pieces, which is more noticeable in herringbone than in a straight-lay pattern because of how the eye tracks the repeating angles. Step 5: Cut and Set Border Tile Once the field of whole tiles is set, move to the perimeter and cut border pieces to fill the remaining space. Measure each cut individually rather than assuming they will all match, since even small variations in the room's squareness will change border cuts as you move along a wall. A wet saw gives the cleanest angled cuts for this step. Step 6: Grout the Pattern Let the thinset cure fully before grouting, typically 24 to 48 hours. Because herringbone has more linear grout line footage than a straight-lay pattern of the same area, plan for slightly more grout than a standard calculator based on square footage alone would suggest. For technique on mixing and applying grout, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Choosing an Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal, or Diagonal Orientation changes both the visual effect and the installation approach. A vertical herringbone layout draws the eye upward and can make a room feel taller, which is a popular choice for shower walls. A horizontal layout widens the visual field and works well on floors. A diagonal or 45 degree herringbone adds a more dynamic, modern feel but increases the number of angled border cuts, so budget extra time and tile waste if you choose this orientation. Common Mistakes to Avoid Skipping the dry layout and discovering awkward cuts only after tile is already set Underestimating waste and running short on tile mid-project Establishing working lines off a wall instead of true center, which throws off the whole pattern as it repeats Rushing spacer placement, leading to visible drift in the zigzag over a large area Under-ordering grout due to herringbone's higher linear joint footage
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How to Install Mesh-Mounted Mosaic Tile Sheets (And Fix Common Problems)
Mesh-mounted mosaic sheets go up faster than individual tiles, but they come with format-specific issues that individual tile does not: sheets that will not line up, visible seams between sheets, and mesh backing that needs trimming at edges. The fix for most of these problems comes down to dry-laying sheets before you commit to thinset, staggering seams intentionally, and cutting the mesh rather than forcing whole sheets into tight spaces. This guide applies to mesh-mounted mosaic in any material, glass, stone, metal, or pebble, since the sheet format itself, not the tile material, is what causes most of these problems. Table of Contents Mesh-Mounted vs. Film-Mounted: Why It Matters Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Dry Lay Sheets Before Installing Step 2: Plan Seam Placement Step 3: Apply Thinset and Set Sheets Step 4: Trim Mesh for Edges and Corners Step 5: Adjust Individual Pieces Before Thinset Sets Fixing Common Mesh Sheet Problems Mesh-Mounted vs. Film-Mounted: Why It Matters Mesh-mounted sheets have a fabric mesh backing attached to the back of each piece, so the mesh stays in the thinset and is invisible once installed. Film-mounted sheets have a clear film attached to the face of the tile that gets peeled off after the sheets are set. Mixing up which type you have changes your process: mesh sheets go in with the mesh side against the thinset, while film-mounted sheets go in film-side out, then get peeled once the setting material begins to firm up. Check your product packaging or product page before you start, since applying the wrong technique to the wrong mount type is a common source of installation problems. Tools and Materials You Will Need Notched trowel (size depends on tile thickness, typically 3/16 inch for mosaic) Thinset mortar (white for glass or light stone, gray acceptable for most metal and darker stone) Utility knife or mesh scissors for trimming sheets Tile spacers or spacer wedges for adjusting seam gaps Rubber grout float or a flat block wrapped in a towel, for bedding sheets evenly Grout appropriate for your joint width Small notched trowel or putty knife for tight edge areas Step 1: Dry Lay Sheets Before Installing Lay out enough sheets to cover the full installation area before mixing any thinset. This is the single most effective way to prevent lineup problems, since it lets you see where seams will fall, whether the last row needs cutting, and how the pattern repeats across multiple sheets. Adjust your starting point if the layout leaves an awkward sliver at a visible edge. Step 2: Plan Seam Placement Seams between sheets are the most common visible flaw in a finished mosaic installation. Stagger seams so they do not all fall in a straight line, and avoid placing a seam at a highly visible focal point such as the center of a backsplash or directly above a vanity. Where possible, remove one or two rows of tile from the mesh at the edge of a sheet and hand-set them individually to control the joint spacing between sheets, matching it to the spacing within each sheet. Step 3: Apply Thinset and Set Sheets Apply thinset with a notched trowel over a small section at a time, generally one to two sheets ahead of where you are actively working. Press each sheet into the thinset, then bed it evenly using a grout float or a flat block wrapped in a towel, applying light, even pressure across the whole sheet rather than pressing hard in the center only. Back-buttering, applying a thin layer of thinset directly to the back of the sheet before placement, improves coverage and helps prevent hollow spots, especially with heavier stone or metal mosaics. Step 4: Trim Mesh for Edges and Corners When a full sheet does not fit an edge or corner, cut the mesh backing with a utility knife rather than trying to force a whole sheet into a space it does not fit. Cutting between individual tile pieces, along the mesh, lets you remove exactly the number of rows or columns needed while keeping the remaining piece intact and properly spaced. Step 5: Adjust Individual Pieces Before Thinset Sets Mesh sheets often have a few pieces that sit slightly crooked or unevenly spaced straight out of the box. While the thinset is still workable, go back over the installed sheets and nudge any misaligned pieces into place with a fingertip or the tip of a spacer. This small step, done immediately after setting each sheet, prevents small inconsistencies from becoming permanent. Fixing Common Mesh Sheet Problems Sheets do not line up at the seam. This is usually a manufacturing tolerance issue between sheets, not an installation mistake. Remove a partial row from one sheet's edge and hand-set individual pieces to close the gap and match spacing on both sides of the seam. Visible line where two sheets meet. Stagger seams so they fall in different rows across the installation rather than lining up vertically or horizontally, and avoid placing a seam in the most visible part of the wall or floor. Some tiles are loose or falling off the mesh. This can happen during shipping or handling. Set the loose piece back into position by hand once the sheet is placed, using a small dab of thinset if it separated completely from the mesh. Grout lines are inconsistent from sheet to sheet. Use spacers or spacer wedges between sheets to standardize the seam gap to match the gap within each sheet, rather than relying on the mesh backing alone to set spacing. Looking for a specific material? See our guides to glass mosaic installation and metal mosaic tile installation for material-specific technique, or browse Glass Tiles and Pebble Tile Mosaics to shop mesh-mounted options.
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How to Install Natural Stone Mosaic Tile: A Step-by-Step Guide
Installing natural stone mosaic tile follows the same basic sequence as other mosaics, prepare the substrate, plan the sheet layout, apply thinset, set the sheets, and grout, but with one critical extra step: sealing the stone before you grout. Natural stone is porous, and grout haze or pigment can permanently stain an unsealed surface. Get that step right and the rest of the process is very similar to installing any mesh mounted mosaic. This guide covers the full process for marble, travertine, limestone, and other natural stone mosaics, along with the mistakes that most often lead to staining or an uneven finish. Table of Contents What Makes Natural Stone Mosaic Different to Install Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Step 2: Pre-Seal the Stone Step 3: Dry Lay and Plan Sheet Placement Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Sheets Step 5: Cut Sheets for Edges and Fixtures Step 6: Grout Carefully Step 7: Seal Again After Grouting Common Mistakes to Avoid What Makes Natural Stone Mosaic Different to Install Unlike glass or porcelain, natural stone is porous and can absorb moisture, grout pigment, and adhesive residue if it is not protected first. Stone mosaics also vary slightly in shade and vein pattern from sheet to sheet, so blending sheets during layout matters more than it does with a uniform manufactured tile. Beyond those two differences, the mechanics of setting a mesh mounted stone sheet are close to any other mosaic installation. Browse our Natural Stone Mosaic collection or the Natural Stone Waterjet Mosaics for marble, limestone, and tessarae designs referenced throughout this guide. Tools and Materials You Will Need Cement backer board or approved waterproof substrate Penetrating stone sealer (impregnating type, not topical) Small foam brush or applicator for sealer Notched trowel (3/16 inch for most mosaic sheets) White thinset mortar (reduces shadowing under light colored stone) Tile spacers Wet saw with a blade rated for natural stone Grout float Non-sanded or sanded grout, matched to joint width Soft grout sponge Safety glasses and gloves Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Start with a flat, clean, structurally sound substrate. In wet areas, use cement backer board with a waterproofing membrane over the seams. Natural stone is heavier than glass or ceramic mosaic, so confirm the substrate can support the added weight, especially on floors. Step 2: Pre-Seal the Stone Before any adhesive touches the tile, apply a penetrating impregnating sealer to the face of the stone and let it cure according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically 24 hours. This step protects the stone from absorbing grout pigment and moisture during installation. Skipping it is the single most common reason stone mosaics end up stained or discolored after grouting. Step 3: Dry Lay and Plan Sheet Placement Open several sheets from different boxes and lay them out before installing anything. Natural stone sheets can vary in tone and veining, so blend sheets from different boxes rather than installing them in the order they came out of one box. This prevents obvious color blocking on the finished wall or floor. Mark your layout lines the same way you would for any tile project, starting from the most visible point of the installation and working outward. Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Sheets Use white thinset mortar, especially with light colored stone, since gray thinset can shadow through thin or translucent stone pieces. Apply with a 3/16 inch notched trowel and work in small sections, since mosaic sheets go up quickly once you get into a rhythm. Press each sheet firmly and evenly using a grout float or a flat piece of wood covered with a towel, tapping gently to bed all the individual pieces at a consistent depth. Check for lippage (uneven height between adjacent pieces) as you go, since this is harder to correct after the thinset sets. Step 5: Cut Sheets for Edges and Fixtures Use a wet saw fitted with a blade rated for natural stone to cut individual pieces or partial sheets for edges, corners, and fixture cutouts. Stone chips more easily than porcelain, so let the blade do the work rather than forcing the cut. Step 6: Grout Carefully Let the thinset cure fully before grouting, usually 24 to 48 hours. Choose a grout color carefully, since pigmented grout can still tint porous stone even after pre-sealing if it sits too long before cleanup. Work in small sections and wipe away excess grout with a barely damp sponge sooner than you would with porcelain or ceramic. For general technique on mixing and applying grout, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Step 7: Seal Again After Grouting Once the grout has cured, typically 48 to 72 hours, apply a second coat of penetrating sealer over the entire surface, including the grout lines. This final seal protects both the stone and the grout from staining during everyday use and should be reapplied periodically, generally once a year in wet areas like showers. Common Mistakes to Avoid Skipping the pre-seal step and grouting directly onto raw stone Using gray thinset under light or translucent stone, causing visible shadowing Installing sheets straight from one box without blending, leading to obvious color patches Leaving grout on the surface too long before wiping, which increases staining risk Forgetting to reseal periodically after installation is complete Ready to start your project? Explore our Natural Stone Mosaic collection, the Natural Stone Waterjet Mosaics, or read more installation guides on our Tile Talk Blog and Backsplash Blog.
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How to Install Porcelain Tile on Shower Walls: A Step-by-Step Guide
Installing porcelain tile on shower walls involves five main stages: preparing a waterproof substrate, planning your layout, applying thinset with a notched trowel, setting the tile with spacers, and grouting once the adhesive has cured. Porcelain is one of the best materials for shower walls because it is dense, low absorption, and holds up to constant moisture better than most alternatives. With the right prep and a methodical layout, this is a project most confident DIYers can complete in a weekend. This guide walks through the full process, the tools you need, and the mistakes that most often cause problems in wet area installations. Table of Contents Why Porcelain Works Well for Shower Walls Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Step 2: Plan Your Layout Step 3: Mix and Apply Thinset Step 4: Set the Tile Step 5: Cut Tile for Edges and Corners Step 6: Grout and Seal Common Mistakes to Avoid Porcelain vs. Other Shower Wall Materials Why Porcelain Works Well for Shower Walls Porcelain tile has a water absorption rate below 0.5 percent, which makes it one of the most moisture resistant materials available for wet areas. It is also harder and denser than standard ceramic, so it resists chipping and wear over time. For shower walls specifically, porcelain gives you a surface that will not stain, fade, or absorb soap scum the way more porous materials can. If you are still deciding between materials, our Shower Blog covers tile options for every part of a shower, including our guide to choosing shower floor tile, which applies many of the same selection principles to walls. Tools and Materials You Will Need Cement backer board (never drywall in a shower) Waterproofing membrane or liquid membrane Notched trowel (1/4 inch square notch is standard for wall tile) Modified thinset mortar rated for wet areas Tile spacers Level and laser level Tile cutter or wet saw Grout float Sanded or unsanded grout, depending on joint width Grout sealer Safety glasses and gloves Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Never install tile directly over drywall in a shower. Start with cement backer board fastened to the studs, then apply a waterproofing membrane over every seam and screw point. This step is the single biggest factor in whether your installation lasts. Poor waterproofing is the most common cause of shower tile failure, regardless of how well the tile itself is set. Check that the wall is flat and plumb before moving forward. Any high spots or dips will telegraph through the finished tile, especially with large format porcelain. Step 2: Plan Your Layout Find the center point of the wall and use a level to draw a vertical guideline. Dry lay a row of tile along the bottom of the wall, using spacers, to see how the pattern falls at the corners. Adjust your starting point if you end up with slivers of tile at either edge. A balanced layout with full tiles at the most visible points, usually eye level and outer edges, will look more intentional than starting blindly in a corner. If you are installing a pattern rather than a straight stack, see our Chevron Shower Wall Tile Design guide for layout principles that also apply to herringbone and other angled patterns. Step 3: Mix and Apply Thinset Mix modified thinset to a peanut butter consistency, thick enough to hold a trowel ridge without slumping. Apply it to a small section of the wall, roughly 2 to 3 square feet at a time, using the flat side of the trowel first to spread it, then the notched side held at a consistent 45 degree angle to comb it into even ridges. Working in small sections keeps the thinset from skinning over before you can set tile into it. Step 4: Set the Tile Press each tile firmly into the thinset using a slight twisting motion to fully collapse the ridges and create solid contact. Insert spacers immediately to maintain consistent joint width. Check your level every two or three tiles, since even small drifts compound quickly across a full wall. For large format porcelain, back buttering (applying a thin layer of thinset to the back of each tile in addition to the wall) improves coverage and reduces the risk of hollow spots. Step 5: Cut Tile for Edges and Corners Use a wet saw for straight cuts and a tile nipper or hole saw for cutouts around plumbing fixtures. Measure twice before cutting, and always cut with the finished face oriented correctly for your saw type to avoid chipping. Dry fit every cut piece before applying thinset. Step 6: Grout and Seal Let the thinset cure fully, typically 24 to 48 hours, before grouting. Choose sanded grout for joints wider than 1/8 inch and unsanded grout for narrower joints, since sanded grout can scratch the glazed surface of some porcelain tiles in tight joints. For a full walkthrough of grout application and cleanup technique, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Once the grout has cured, apply a penetrating sealer to protect it from moisture and staining, especially in a daily use shower. Common Mistakes to Avoid Installing over drywall instead of backer board or a waterproof substrate Skipping the dry layout and ending up with awkward slivers at corners Applying thinset over too large an area, causing it to dry before tiles are set Using unsanded grout in wide joints, which can crack over time Skipping grout sealer, which shortens the life of the installation in a wet environment Porcelain vs. Other Shower Wall Materials Porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone are the three most common choices for shower walls. Porcelain offers the lowest water absorption and highest durability of the three. Ceramic is easier to cut and slightly less expensive, but more porous. Natural stone offers a unique look but requires regular sealing to stay water resistant. Browse our full range of options in Bathroom and Shower Tiles to compare materials side by side. Ready to start your shower project? Explore our full selection of Shower Floor Tiles and Bathroom and Shower Tiles, or read more installation guides on our Shower Blog and Tile Talk Blog.
Read moreRelated Installation Guides
A few more installation guides live in other sections of our blog, organized by tile pattern and material rather than by the Installation category. If you did not find what you needed above, check here.
- The Ultimate Guide to Metal Mosaic Tile Installation
- Glass Mosaic Tile Installation Guide
- How to Install Subway Tile
- Install Picket Tile: A Step-by-Step Guide
- How to Install Peel and Stick Tile
- Step by Step Tile Installation: Complete DIY Guide
- Chevron Shower Wall Tile Design and Installation
- Herringbone Elongated Shower Wall Tile Design and Installation
- Complete Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Laying Tiles
- How to Grout Tiles
- What Grout to Use on Glass, Ceramic, or Natural Stone Tile
