Every tile installation starts the same way: a sound substrate, a plan for layout, and the right materials for the job. What changes is the application. A shower wall has different waterproofing requirements than a kitchen backsplash. A herringbone floor needs different layout planning than a straight-set subway pattern. Natural stone needs sealing steps that porcelain does not. This is where most installation mistakes happen, not in the basic mechanics of spreading thinset and setting tile, but in skipping the steps specific to the material or the room.
The guides below walk through full installations from start to finish, covering the tools you need, the substrate prep specific to each application, and the technique that keeps the finished result looking intentional rather than improvised. Whether you are tiling your first backsplash or planning a full bathroom renovation, start with the guide that matches your project and material.
If you are still deciding whether to take a project on yourself or bring in a professional, our DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation guide breaks down the factors worth weighing before you buy a single tool.
Tile Installation Guides
Tile Installation Guides
Can You Install Tile Over Existing Tile? What to Know Before You Start
Yes, you can install new tile directly over existing tile in most cases, as long as the existing tile is firmly bonded, flat, and structurally sound, and you are prepared for the height the additional layer adds to the floor or wall. This approach skips the time, mess, and cost of demolition, but it is not the right choice for every situation. Before you commit, check the condition of your existing tile, the height clearance at doors and transitions, and whether your existing installation has any of the failure signs that make tiling over it a bad idea. This guide walks through how to evaluate whether your existing tile is a good candidate, how to prepare it, and the installation process once you decide to move forward. Table of Contents When Tiling Over Existing Tile Makes Sense When You Should Remove the Old Tile Instead Check Height Clearance Before You Commit Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Inspect and Test the Existing Tile Step 2: Clean and Deglaze the Surface Step 3: Repair Any Damaged Areas Step 4: Apply Bonding Primer if Needed Step 5: Install the New Tile When Tiling Over Existing Tile Makes Sense Tiling over existing tile is a reasonable option when the current tile is fully bonded to the substrate with no loose or hollow-sounding areas, the surface is flat and free of significant chips or cracks, and the room can accommodate the added height without creating problems at doors, cabinets, or transitions to other flooring. This approach works on both floors and walls and can save significant time and demolition cost compared to a full tear-out. When You Should Remove the Old Tile Instead Skip this approach and remove the existing tile if you notice any loose, cracked, or hollow-sounding tiles, visible water damage or staining that suggests moisture behind the tile, significant unevenness across the surface, or more than one existing layer of tile already on the substrate. Adding tile on top of a compromised installation locks in the underlying problem rather than fixing it. For a full removal process, see our Complete Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Laying Tiles. Check Height Clearance Before You Commit Every layer you add increases the finished height of the floor or wall, typically by 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch once thinset and new tile are accounted for. On floors, measure clearance at doors, cabinet toe kicks, and any transition to an adjoining room. On walls, check clearance around outlets, switch plates, and any built-in fixtures. This step gets skipped more often than any other and causes the most regret after installation is complete. Tools and Materials You Will Need Tapping tool or rubber mallet, for the sound test Degreasing cleaner 120-grit sandpaper or a deglazing agent, for glossy tile Patching compound, for chipped or damaged areas Bonding primer rated for tile-to-tile application Modified thinset mortar Notched trowel Tile spacers Grout appropriate to your joint width Step 1: Inspect and Test the Existing Tile Tap across the entire surface with a tapping tool or the handle of a screwdriver, listening for hollow spots that indicate the tile has separated from the substrate underneath. Mark any hollow-sounding areas. A small number of isolated hollow spots can often be addressed with patching, but widespread hollow sound across the surface is a sign the whole installation should be removed rather than tiled over. Step 2: Clean and Deglaze the Surface Clean the existing tile thoroughly with a degreasing cleaner to remove soap scum, oils, and any residue that would prevent thinset from bonding properly. If the existing tile has a glossy or polished glaze, scuff the surface with 120-grit sandpaper or use a deglazing agent, since thinset does not bond well to a smooth, glossy surface without some mechanical texture to grip. Step 3: Repair Any Damaged Areas Fill chips, cracks, and hollow spots identified during inspection with a patching compound rated for use under tile, and let it cure fully according to the product instructions. Sand any patched areas flush with the surrounding surface so the new tile sets flat once installed. Step 4: Apply Bonding Primer if Needed For glossy or low-porosity existing tile, apply a bonding primer designed for tile-to-tile installation before setting new tile. This step significantly improves how well the modified thinset grips the old surface and is worth the extra time, especially on walls where gravity works against a weak bond over time. Step 5: Install the New Tile Once the surface is clean, repaired, and primed if needed, the installation process is the same as tiling any other substrate: apply modified thinset with a notched trowel, set the new tile with spacers to maintain consistent joints, and let it cure before grouting. For general grouting technique, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Considering a full tear-out instead? See our Complete Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Laying Tiles, or browse our Floor Blog for more flooring-specific installation guidance. * I would like to point out, that BELK Tile DOES NOT recommend tiling over existing tile. There will be too many factors that will make this impossible to do.
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How to Install Herringbone Tile: A Layout and Installation Guide
Installing herringbone tile comes down to getting the layout right before you set a single piece. Establish a straight, centered starting line, dry lay a section to confirm your angle and cut points, budget extra tile for waste, then work outward in both directions from your starting point so the zigzag stays consistent across the full wall or floor. The pattern itself is not difficult once the layout is planned, but small errors in your starting line get magnified as the pattern repeats. This guide covers the technical side of installing herringbone tile: layout, waste calculation, cutting, and setting technique. For design inspiration and material options, see our Herringbone Tile Designs collection. Table of Contents Herringbone vs. Chevron: Know the Difference Before You Start Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Calculate Extra Tile for Waste Step 2: Establish Your Working Lines Step 3: Dry Lay a Test Section Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Field Tile Step 5: Cut and Set Border Tile Step 6: Grout the Pattern Choosing an Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal, or Diagonal Common Mistakes to Avoid Herringbone vs. Chevron: Know the Difference Before You Start Herringbone and chevron are often confused, but they install differently. Herringbone uses rectangular tiles that overlap at a 90 degree angle in a staggered, interlocking pattern, with each tile end sitting flush against the long edge of the next. Chevron uses tiles pre-cut at an angle so they meet in a continuous, seamless V-shape with no overlap. Herringbone is more forgiving for a first-time installer since the tiles are simple rectangles, while chevron requires angle-cut tile purchased that way from the manufacturer. Tools and Materials You Will Need Chalk line or laser level for working lines Notched trowel sized to your tile Thinset mortar Tile spacers Wet saw for cutting border and edge pieces Tile leveling clips (recommended for larger format herringbone tile) Grout float Grout appropriate to your joint width Pencil and graph paper, or layout software, for planning cut points Step 1: Calculate Extra Tile for Waste Herringbone generates more cut waste than a straight or offset layout because every tile at the border needs an angled cut to complete the pattern. Order 15 to 20 percent extra tile to cover this, compared to the 10 percent typically recommended for straight-lay patterns. Running short mid-installation is a common and avoidable problem with this pattern specifically. Step 2: Establish Your Working Lines Find the center of the installation area and snap a chalk line for your primary axis, either vertical or horizontal depending on your chosen orientation. From that centerline, establish a second line perpendicular to it. These two lines are what keep the pattern square as it repeats across the full space, so take the time to confirm both are accurate with a level before you mix any thinset. Step 3: Dry Lay a Test Section Lay out enough tile, without adhesive, to see four or five full pattern repeats along your working lines. This confirms your tile size produces clean intersections and shows you what the border cuts will look like before you commit. Adjust your starting point now if the dry layout leaves narrow, awkward slivers at a visible wall or the room's entry point. Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Field Tile Apply thinset with a notched trowel along one working line at a time, setting whole (uncut) tiles first and working outward from your centerline in both directions. Use spacers at every joint to maintain consistent spacing, and check that each tile is square to its neighbors as you go. For larger format tile, leveling clips help prevent lippage between adjacent pieces, which is more noticeable in herringbone than in a straight-lay pattern because of how the eye tracks the repeating angles. Step 5: Cut and Set Border Tile Once the field of whole tiles is set, move to the perimeter and cut border pieces to fill the remaining space. Measure each cut individually rather than assuming they will all match, since even small variations in the room's squareness will change border cuts as you move along a wall. A wet saw gives the cleanest angled cuts for this step. Step 6: Grout the Pattern Let the thinset cure fully before grouting, typically 24 to 48 hours. Because herringbone has more linear grout line footage than a straight-lay pattern of the same area, plan for slightly more grout than a standard calculator based on square footage alone would suggest. For technique on mixing and applying grout, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Choosing an Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal, or Diagonal Orientation changes both the visual effect and the installation approach. A vertical herringbone layout draws the eye upward and can make a room feel taller, which is a popular choice for shower walls. A horizontal layout widens the visual field and works well on floors. A diagonal or 45 degree herringbone adds a more dynamic, modern feel but increases the number of angled border cuts, so budget extra time and tile waste if you choose this orientation. Common Mistakes to Avoid Skipping the dry layout and discovering awkward cuts only after tile is already set Underestimating waste and running short on tile mid-project Establishing working lines off a wall instead of true center, which throws off the whole pattern as it repeats Rushing spacer placement, leading to visible drift in the zigzag over a large area Under-ordering grout due to herringbone's higher linear joint footage
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How to Install Mesh-Mounted Mosaic Tile Sheets (And Fix Common Problems)
Mesh-mounted mosaic sheets go up faster than individual tiles, but they come with format-specific issues that individual tile does not: sheets that will not line up, visible seams between sheets, and mesh backing that needs trimming at edges. The fix for most of these problems comes down to dry-laying sheets before you commit to thinset, staggering seams intentionally, and cutting the mesh rather than forcing whole sheets into tight spaces. This guide applies to mesh-mounted mosaic in any material, glass, stone, metal, or pebble, since the sheet format itself, not the tile material, is what causes most of these problems. Table of Contents Mesh-Mounted vs. Film-Mounted: Why It Matters Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Dry Lay Sheets Before Installing Step 2: Plan Seam Placement Step 3: Apply Thinset and Set Sheets Step 4: Trim Mesh for Edges and Corners Step 5: Adjust Individual Pieces Before Thinset Sets Fixing Common Mesh Sheet Problems Mesh-Mounted vs. Film-Mounted: Why It Matters Mesh-mounted sheets have a fabric mesh backing attached to the back of each piece, so the mesh stays in the thinset and is invisible once installed. Film-mounted sheets have a clear film attached to the face of the tile that gets peeled off after the sheets are set. Mixing up which type you have changes your process: mesh sheets go in with the mesh side against the thinset, while film-mounted sheets go in film-side out, then get peeled once the setting material begins to firm up. Check your product packaging or product page before you start, since applying the wrong technique to the wrong mount type is a common source of installation problems. Tools and Materials You Will Need Notched trowel (size depends on tile thickness, typically 3/16 inch for mosaic) Thinset mortar (white for glass or light stone, gray acceptable for most metal and darker stone) Utility knife or mesh scissors for trimming sheets Tile spacers or spacer wedges for adjusting seam gaps Rubber grout float or a flat block wrapped in a towel, for bedding sheets evenly Grout appropriate for your joint width Small notched trowel or putty knife for tight edge areas Step 1: Dry Lay Sheets Before Installing Lay out enough sheets to cover the full installation area before mixing any thinset. This is the single most effective way to prevent lineup problems, since it lets you see where seams will fall, whether the last row needs cutting, and how the pattern repeats across multiple sheets. Adjust your starting point if the layout leaves an awkward sliver at a visible edge. Step 2: Plan Seam Placement Seams between sheets are the most common visible flaw in a finished mosaic installation. Stagger seams so they do not all fall in a straight line, and avoid placing a seam at a highly visible focal point such as the center of a backsplash or directly above a vanity. Where possible, remove one or two rows of tile from the mesh at the edge of a sheet and hand-set them individually to control the joint spacing between sheets, matching it to the spacing within each sheet. Step 3: Apply Thinset and Set Sheets Apply thinset with a notched trowel over a small section at a time, generally one to two sheets ahead of where you are actively working. Press each sheet into the thinset, then bed it evenly using a grout float or a flat block wrapped in a towel, applying light, even pressure across the whole sheet rather than pressing hard in the center only. Back-buttering, applying a thin layer of thinset directly to the back of the sheet before placement, improves coverage and helps prevent hollow spots, especially with heavier stone or metal mosaics. Step 4: Trim Mesh for Edges and Corners When a full sheet does not fit an edge or corner, cut the mesh backing with a utility knife rather than trying to force a whole sheet into a space it does not fit. Cutting between individual tile pieces, along the mesh, lets you remove exactly the number of rows or columns needed while keeping the remaining piece intact and properly spaced. Step 5: Adjust Individual Pieces Before Thinset Sets Mesh sheets often have a few pieces that sit slightly crooked or unevenly spaced straight out of the box. While the thinset is still workable, go back over the installed sheets and nudge any misaligned pieces into place with a fingertip or the tip of a spacer. This small step, done immediately after setting each sheet, prevents small inconsistencies from becoming permanent. Fixing Common Mesh Sheet Problems Sheets do not line up at the seam. This is usually a manufacturing tolerance issue between sheets, not an installation mistake. Remove a partial row from one sheet's edge and hand-set individual pieces to close the gap and match spacing on both sides of the seam. Visible line where two sheets meet. Stagger seams so they fall in different rows across the installation rather than lining up vertically or horizontally, and avoid placing a seam in the most visible part of the wall or floor. Some tiles are loose or falling off the mesh. This can happen during shipping or handling. Set the loose piece back into position by hand once the sheet is placed, using a small dab of thinset if it separated completely from the mesh. Grout lines are inconsistent from sheet to sheet. Use spacers or spacer wedges between sheets to standardize the seam gap to match the gap within each sheet, rather than relying on the mesh backing alone to set spacing. Looking for a specific material? See our guides to glass mosaic installation and metal mosaic tile installation for material-specific technique, or browse Glass Tiles and Pebble Tile Mosaics to shop mesh-mounted options.
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How to Install Natural Stone Mosaic Tile: A Step-by-Step Guide
Installing natural stone mosaic tile follows the same basic sequence as other mosaics, prepare the substrate, plan the sheet layout, apply thinset, set the sheets, and grout, but with one critical extra step: sealing the stone before you grout. Natural stone is porous, and grout haze or pigment can permanently stain an unsealed surface. Get that step right and the rest of the process is very similar to installing any mesh mounted mosaic. This guide covers the full process for marble, travertine, limestone, and other natural stone mosaics, along with the mistakes that most often lead to staining or an uneven finish. Table of Contents What Makes Natural Stone Mosaic Different to Install Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Step 2: Pre-Seal the Stone Step 3: Dry Lay and Plan Sheet Placement Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Sheets Step 5: Cut Sheets for Edges and Fixtures Step 6: Grout Carefully Step 7: Seal Again After Grouting Common Mistakes to Avoid What Makes Natural Stone Mosaic Different to Install Unlike glass or porcelain, natural stone is porous and can absorb moisture, grout pigment, and adhesive residue if it is not protected first. Stone mosaics also vary slightly in shade and vein pattern from sheet to sheet, so blending sheets during layout matters more than it does with a uniform manufactured tile. Beyond those two differences, the mechanics of setting a mesh mounted stone sheet are close to any other mosaic installation. Browse our Natural Stone Mosaic collection or the Natural Stone Waterjet Mosaics for marble, limestone, and tessarae designs referenced throughout this guide. Tools and Materials You Will Need Cement backer board or approved waterproof substrate Penetrating stone sealer (impregnating type, not topical) Small foam brush or applicator for sealer Notched trowel (3/16 inch for most mosaic sheets) White thinset mortar (reduces shadowing under light colored stone) Tile spacers Wet saw with a blade rated for natural stone Grout float Non-sanded or sanded grout, matched to joint width Soft grout sponge Safety glasses and gloves Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Start with a flat, clean, structurally sound substrate. In wet areas, use cement backer board with a waterproofing membrane over the seams. Natural stone is heavier than glass or ceramic mosaic, so confirm the substrate can support the added weight, especially on floors. Step 2: Pre-Seal the Stone Before any adhesive touches the tile, apply a penetrating impregnating sealer to the face of the stone and let it cure according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically 24 hours. This step protects the stone from absorbing grout pigment and moisture during installation. Skipping it is the single most common reason stone mosaics end up stained or discolored after grouting. Step 3: Dry Lay and Plan Sheet Placement Open several sheets from different boxes and lay them out before installing anything. Natural stone sheets can vary in tone and veining, so blend sheets from different boxes rather than installing them in the order they came out of one box. This prevents obvious color blocking on the finished wall or floor. Mark your layout lines the same way you would for any tile project, starting from the most visible point of the installation and working outward. Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Sheets Use white thinset mortar, especially with light colored stone, since gray thinset can shadow through thin or translucent stone pieces. Apply with a 3/16 inch notched trowel and work in small sections, since mosaic sheets go up quickly once you get into a rhythm. Press each sheet firmly and evenly using a grout float or a flat piece of wood covered with a towel, tapping gently to bed all the individual pieces at a consistent depth. Check for lippage (uneven height between adjacent pieces) as you go, since this is harder to correct after the thinset sets. Step 5: Cut Sheets for Edges and Fixtures Use a wet saw fitted with a blade rated for natural stone to cut individual pieces or partial sheets for edges, corners, and fixture cutouts. Stone chips more easily than porcelain, so let the blade do the work rather than forcing the cut. Step 6: Grout Carefully Let the thinset cure fully before grouting, usually 24 to 48 hours. Choose a grout color carefully, since pigmented grout can still tint porous stone even after pre-sealing if it sits too long before cleanup. Work in small sections and wipe away excess grout with a barely damp sponge sooner than you would with porcelain or ceramic. For general technique on mixing and applying grout, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Step 7: Seal Again After Grouting Once the grout has cured, typically 48 to 72 hours, apply a second coat of penetrating sealer over the entire surface, including the grout lines. This final seal protects both the stone and the grout from staining during everyday use and should be reapplied periodically, generally once a year in wet areas like showers. Common Mistakes to Avoid Skipping the pre-seal step and grouting directly onto raw stone Using gray thinset under light or translucent stone, causing visible shadowing Installing sheets straight from one box without blending, leading to obvious color patches Leaving grout on the surface too long before wiping, which increases staining risk Forgetting to reseal periodically after installation is complete Ready to start your project? Explore our Natural Stone Mosaic collection, the Natural Stone Waterjet Mosaics, or read more installation guides on our Tile Talk Blog and Backsplash Blog.
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How to Install Porcelain Tile on Shower Walls: A Step-by-Step Guide
Installing porcelain tile on shower walls involves five main stages: preparing a waterproof substrate, planning your layout, applying thinset with a notched trowel, setting the tile with spacers, and grouting once the adhesive has cured. Porcelain is one of the best materials for shower walls because it is dense, low absorption, and holds up to constant moisture better than most alternatives. With the right prep and a methodical layout, this is a project most confident DIYers can complete in a weekend. This guide walks through the full process, the tools you need, and the mistakes that most often cause problems in wet area installations. Table of Contents Why Porcelain Works Well for Shower Walls Tools and Materials You Will Need Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Step 2: Plan Your Layout Step 3: Mix and Apply Thinset Step 4: Set the Tile Step 5: Cut Tile for Edges and Corners Step 6: Grout and Seal Common Mistakes to Avoid Porcelain vs. Other Shower Wall Materials Why Porcelain Works Well for Shower Walls Porcelain tile has a water absorption rate below 0.5 percent, which makes it one of the most moisture resistant materials available for wet areas. It is also harder and denser than standard ceramic, so it resists chipping and wear over time. For shower walls specifically, porcelain gives you a surface that will not stain, fade, or absorb soap scum the way more porous materials can. If you are still deciding between materials, our Shower Blog covers tile options for every part of a shower, including our guide to choosing shower floor tile, which applies many of the same selection principles to walls. Tools and Materials You Will Need Cement backer board (never drywall in a shower) Waterproofing membrane or liquid membrane Notched trowel (1/4 inch square notch is standard for wall tile) Modified thinset mortar rated for wet areas Tile spacers Level and laser level Tile cutter or wet saw Grout float Sanded or unsanded grout, depending on joint width Grout sealer Safety glasses and gloves Step 1: Prepare the Substrate Never install tile directly over drywall in a shower. Start with cement backer board fastened to the studs, then apply a waterproofing membrane over every seam and screw point. This step is the single biggest factor in whether your installation lasts. Poor waterproofing is the most common cause of shower tile failure, regardless of how well the tile itself is set. Check that the wall is flat and plumb before moving forward. Any high spots or dips will telegraph through the finished tile, especially with large format porcelain. Step 2: Plan Your Layout Find the center point of the wall and use a level to draw a vertical guideline. Dry lay a row of tile along the bottom of the wall, using spacers, to see how the pattern falls at the corners. Adjust your starting point if you end up with slivers of tile at either edge. A balanced layout with full tiles at the most visible points, usually eye level and outer edges, will look more intentional than starting blindly in a corner. If you are installing a pattern rather than a straight stack, see our Chevron Shower Wall Tile Design guide for layout principles that also apply to herringbone and other angled patterns. Step 3: Mix and Apply Thinset Mix modified thinset to a peanut butter consistency, thick enough to hold a trowel ridge without slumping. Apply it to a small section of the wall, roughly 2 to 3 square feet at a time, using the flat side of the trowel first to spread it, then the notched side held at a consistent 45 degree angle to comb it into even ridges. Working in small sections keeps the thinset from skinning over before you can set tile into it. Step 4: Set the Tile Press each tile firmly into the thinset using a slight twisting motion to fully collapse the ridges and create solid contact. Insert spacers immediately to maintain consistent joint width. Check your level every two or three tiles, since even small drifts compound quickly across a full wall. For large format porcelain, back buttering (applying a thin layer of thinset to the back of each tile in addition to the wall) improves coverage and reduces the risk of hollow spots. Step 5: Cut Tile for Edges and Corners Use a wet saw for straight cuts and a tile nipper or hole saw for cutouts around plumbing fixtures. Measure twice before cutting, and always cut with the finished face oriented correctly for your saw type to avoid chipping. Dry fit every cut piece before applying thinset. Step 6: Grout and Seal Let the thinset cure fully, typically 24 to 48 hours, before grouting. Choose sanded grout for joints wider than 1/8 inch and unsanded grout for narrower joints, since sanded grout can scratch the glazed surface of some porcelain tiles in tight joints. For a full walkthrough of grout application and cleanup technique, see our How to Grout Tiles guide. Once the grout has cured, apply a penetrating sealer to protect it from moisture and staining, especially in a daily use shower. Common Mistakes to Avoid Installing over drywall instead of backer board or a waterproof substrate Skipping the dry layout and ending up with awkward slivers at corners Applying thinset over too large an area, causing it to dry before tiles are set Using unsanded grout in wide joints, which can crack over time Skipping grout sealer, which shortens the life of the installation in a wet environment Porcelain vs. Other Shower Wall Materials Porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone are the three most common choices for shower walls. Porcelain offers the lowest water absorption and highest durability of the three. Ceramic is easier to cut and slightly less expensive, but more porous. Natural stone offers a unique look but requires regular sealing to stay water resistant. Browse our full range of options in Bathroom and Shower Tiles to compare materials side by side. Ready to start your shower project? Explore our full selection of Shower Floor Tiles and Bathroom and Shower Tiles, or read more installation guides on our Shower Blog and Tile Talk Blog.
Read moreRelated Installation Guides
A few more installation guides live in other sections of our blog, organized by tile pattern and material rather than by the Installation category. If you did not find what you needed above, check here.
- The Ultimate Guide to Metal Mosaic Tile Installation
- Glass Mosaic Tile Installation Guide
- How to Install Subway Tile
- Install Picket Tile: A Step-by-Step Guide
- How to Install Peel and Stick Tile
- Step by Step Tile Installation: Complete DIY Guide
- Chevron Shower Wall Tile Design and Installation
- Herringbone Elongated Shower Wall Tile Design and Installation
- Complete Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Laying Tiles
- How to Grout Tiles
- What Grout to Use on Glass, Ceramic, or Natural Stone Tile
