How to Install Herringbone Tile: A Layout and Installation Guide

Installing herringbone tile comes down to getting the layout right before you set a single piece. Establish a straight, centered starting line, dry lay a section to confirm your angle and cut points, budget extra tile for waste, then work outward in both directions from your starting point so the zigzag stays consistent across the full wall or floor. The pattern itself is not difficult once the layout is planned, but small errors in your starting line get magnified as the pattern repeats.

This guide covers the technical side of installing herringbone tile: layout, waste calculation, cutting, and setting technique. For design inspiration and material options, see our Herringbone Tile Designs collection.

Table of Contents

• Herringbone vs. Chevron: Know the Difference Before You Start
• Tools and Materials You Will Need
• Step 1: Calculate Extra Tile for Waste
• Step 2: Establish Your Working Lines
• Step 3: Dry Lay a Test Section
• Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Field Tile
• Step 5: Cut and Set Border Tile
• Step 6: Grout the Pattern
• Choosing an Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal, or Diagonal
• Common Mistakes to Avoid

Herringbone vs. Chevron: Know the Difference Before You Start

Herringbone and chevron are often confused, but they install differently. Herringbone uses rectangular tiles that overlap at a 90 degree angle in a staggered, interlocking pattern, with each tile end sitting flush against the long edge of the next. Chevron uses tiles pre-cut at an angle so they meet in a continuous, seamless V-shape with no overlap. Herringbone is more forgiving for a first-time installer since the tiles are simple rectangles, while chevron requires angle-cut tile purchased that way from the manufacturer.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

• Chalk line or laser level for working lines
• Notched trowel sized to your tile
• Thinset mortar
• Tile spacers
• Wet saw for cutting border and edge pieces
• Tile leveling clips (recommended for larger format herringbone tile)
• Grout float
• Grout appropriate to your joint width
• Pencil and graph paper, or layout software, for planning cut points

Step 1: Calculate Extra Tile for Waste

Herringbone generates more cut waste than a straight or offset layout because every tile at the border needs an angled cut to complete the pattern. Order 15 to 20 percent extra tile to cover this, compared to the 10 percent typically recommended for straight-lay patterns. Running short mid-installation is a common and avoidable problem with this pattern specifically.

Step 2: Establish Your Working Lines

Find the center of the installation area and snap a chalk line for your primary axis, either vertical or horizontal depending on your chosen orientation. From that centerline, establish a second line perpendicular to it. These two lines are what keep the pattern square as it repeats across the full space, so take the time to confirm both are accurate with a level before you mix any thinset.

Step 3: Dry Lay a Test Section

Lay out enough tile, without adhesive, to see four or five full pattern repeats along your working lines. This confirms your tile size produces clean intersections and shows you what the border cuts will look like before you commit. Adjust your starting point now if the dry layout leaves narrow, awkward slivers at a visible wall or the room's entry point.

Step 4: Apply Thinset and Set the Field Tile

Apply thinset with a notched trowel along one working line at a time, setting whole (uncut) tiles first and working outward from your centerline in both directions. Use spacers at every joint to maintain consistent spacing, and check that each tile is square to its neighbors as you go. For larger format tile, leveling clips help prevent lippage between adjacent pieces, which is more noticeable in herringbone than in a straight-lay pattern because of how the eye tracks the repeating angles.

Step 5: Cut and Set Border Tile

Once the field of whole tiles is set, move to the perimeter and cut border pieces to fill the remaining space. Measure each cut individually rather than assuming they will all match, since even small variations in the room's squareness will change border cuts as you move along a wall. A wet saw gives the cleanest angled cuts for this step.

Step 6: Grout the Pattern

Let the thinset cure fully before grouting, typically 24 to 48 hours. Because herringbone has more linear grout line footage than a straight-lay pattern of the same area, plan for slightly more grout than a standard calculator based on square footage alone would suggest. For technique on mixing and applying grout, see our How to Grout Tiles guide.

Choosing an Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal, or Diagonal

Orientation changes both the visual effect and the installation approach. A vertical herringbone layout draws the eye upward and can make a room feel taller, which is a popular choice for shower walls. A horizontal layout widens the visual field and works well on floors. A diagonal or 45 degree herringbone adds a more dynamic, modern feel but increases the number of angled border cuts, so budget extra time and tile waste if you choose this orientation.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping the dry layout and discovering awkward cuts only after tile is already set
• Underestimating waste and running short on tile mid-project
• Establishing working lines off a wall instead of true center, which throws off the whole pattern as it repeats
• Rushing spacer placement, leading to visible drift in the zigzag over a large area
• Under-ordering grout due to herringbone's higher linear joint footage